A weekend in Bordeaux & day trip to Arcachon

Bordeaux, the world’s most famous wine region. A charming city rich with history, unique gastronomic experiences, architectural marvels, and endless cycling paths. It’s home to some of the world’s most extraordinary geographic diversity, which yields six grape varietals that when blended together bring unique characteristics to the wine they make. When making a decision on where to head for a weekend trip from Paris, it was a no-brainer.

We started our Friday evening wandering the streets of old town, sipping on a celebratory glass of bubbles while people watching in the main square and made note of the giant ferris wheel we passed making our way to the restaurant. Symbiose prides itself on its farm-to-table dining experience with an added bonus of speakeasy experience tucked away behind a grandfather clock against the back wall. We indulged in a sampling of the menu which included steak tartare with a wonderful accompaniment of satay-seasonings, grilled chanterelles and a decadent whiskey-chocolate tart. It was a wonderful first meal that left us soaking up our plates with side orders of artisanal bread. 

The following morning we stopped into Boulangerie Artisanale “La Fabrique Pains et Bricoles” for what I would deem the lightest, fluffiest, and softest sweet brioche I’ve ever eaten. We loaded up on some other carbs like freshly baked croissants and sandwiches before heading over to St. Emilion, a medieval city just 45 minutes east of Bordeaux, for a day of biking and exploring a few wineries. Our small group toured and sampled wines from Chateau Ferrand, Château Tour Baladoz and Château Croizille, devoured a French picnic lunch, and took a walk through the UNESCO-listed medieval village. It was such a unique way to experience the vineyards, and thanks to Rustic Vines‘ organization and knowledge bestowed throughout the day, I have a much better appreciation for old world wines boasted by Bordeaux. Highly recommend this tour company if you find yourself in the region! 

Later that evening, after a restorative nap and lots of hydrating due to the unprecedented heatwave, we set our sights on Chien de Pavlov, a cozy restaurant beloved by locals (see review). It’s menu is based on season and also offers a ‘blind’ tasting menu which includes an amuse-bouche, entrée, fish, meat and dessert, for only 49 euros. Here are my raw notes from four of the five dishes:

• Beef and oyster tartare, with yuzu, mint, sesame and dill and pickled radish // lovely textures and seasoning. Esp the radish
• Swordfish, carrot tarte tatin, caramelized carrot, yuzu sauce, dried ricotta, black carrot puree // creative use of carrot, very sweet and pairs nicely with the bold fish
• Beef, eggplant & tahini mousse, roasted chickpeas with spice, pickled blackberries, fromage Blanc infused with beechwood, beetroot prepped like gravlox with salt // my favorite, perfectly cooked beef, mediterranean flavors/textures, wonderful umami 
• Tart with fig raw fig berry ice cream of black berry & cherry, fig jam, creme // sweet, refreshing, slight acidity, balanced with cream

With the continued heat bearing down on Bordeaux, we decided on a spontaneous day-trip to Arcachon, a seaside resort town known for its oyster harvesting. We found relief at Club Plage Pereire, somehow managing to snag chairs in-between their lunch and dinner service, most likely due to the Aperol Spritz’ and bottles of white wine ordered. After a lovely dip in the bay, we ventured into town with one objective: to eat raw oysters. Café de la Plage – Restaurant Chez Pierre exceeded our expectations in the form of an exquisite seafood tower complete with escargot, langoustines, clams, and shrimp. The restaurant offers a classic brasserie menu with a focus on regional specialties like grilled fish, seafood and shellfish. It has a oceanfront view and is great for people watching. 

Our last day, we opted for sandwiches from a boulangerie, a beer on the square and a final ice cream at Maison Du Glacier, a recommendation from our wine tour. 

There’s so much we didn’t get to do, mainly due to the season with several restaurants closed and the influx of tourists in town for the World Rugby Cup, but I can’t wait to return for more wine and wanderings.

Mentions for anyone planning a visit:

• La Cite du Vin-high tech wine museum 
• Soif– With its selection of good, natural wine, small plates and excellent vibes, Soif is not to be missed.
• Arcada – Affordable Michelin, 3 courses for 30 Euro
• Cassonade– Damien Desgraves arrived in Bordeaux in 2019 with one hell of a mission: to reinvent the cannelé, the city’s iconic pastry.
• Halles des bacalans – hotspot for Bordeaux foodies. Bringing together over twenty farmers, artisanal traders and regional chefs in a giant hall, this is a food court with a difference. 

Noms!

Czech’ed out Prague and Plzen

Berry Koláče (sweet pastry), Pilsner Urquell, Trdelník (chimney cake) 

Prague, an enchanting fairytale brought to life with medieval castles, cobblestone streets and beautifully preserved baroque architecture might be Europe’s best kept secret. Soviet era cable cars mix with electric scooters to add an air of time travel as you walk through winding alleys in search of the next adventure. Oh, and the beer. Czechians consume the most beer per capita for a reason—it’s really good! And was one of the main reasons for our visit: a tour of the Pilsner Urquell brewery.

In my ignorance, I assumed Prague would mostly be unglamorous meat & potatoes, but was surprised to find a diverse restaurant scene. From traditional Czech, Vietnamese, Indian, Italian, to all types of fusions, Prague had it all. I left with a happy belly and already planning for the next occasion to visit.

We arrived by air late in the evening on a Sunday, hungry and slightly drenched from an unexpected downpour on our arrival. Fortunately I picked a centrally located hotel, a side street off of Old Town square, and we made our way to Muc Dong Restaurant to warm up with some bright, flavorful Vietnamese dishes. After a morning of guided tours and exploring both on foot and by bike we found ourselves cheering our first draft pints of Pilsner Urquell accompanied with steak tartare and fresh pasta from Ristorante Donna. Later in the evening, after an impromptu attendance of some live classical music and opera, we navigated our way to K the Two Brothers where we enjoyed a spread of Indian dishes like daal, aloo gobhi and their secret biriyani rice.

A double Rye IPA from Pivovar Staré Město // Old Man and the Sea cocktail at Hemingway Bar

There is no shortage of drinking options in Prague. Start off by getting Pilsner Urquell on draft anywhere. Next make reservations at Black Angel’s speakeasy where they take visual creativity and cocktail chemistry to the next level. Don’t be fooled by the kitschiness of the facade entrance, and remember no photos. Pivovar Staré město boasts several well-crafted microbrews thanks to the minerality of the Czech Republics water sources. Not far from the river you’ll ind Hemingway Bar boasting a wide selection of absinth, rum and champagne. The lounge is arranged with low, velvet seating, walls packed with ornately framed photographs, and various paraphernalia to make it appear you’re sitting in his living room enjoying a cocktail. If you fancy whiskey and a fine selection of cigars, head to Bar and Books Týnská. You’ll find the entire space decked out in dark wood panels, low lights and a cozy place for a date or group looking to close out the evening. And finally, for those wanting a taste of a college club: explore the five dance floors at Karlovy lázně. Perhaps have one of the robots on the third floor assemble your drink.

You’ll undoubtedly be stopped in your tracks by the smell of freshly baking pastries, suckling pork fat, and mulled wine wafting through the streets during your stay. Thanks to the street stalls, there is no shortage of things to snack on while you’re exploring the beautiful city. Try the a Trdelník, or”chimney cake”, a local favorite pastry that’s best served warm with ice cream. Havel’s Market (or Havelské tržiště) boasts some of the best selection of fresh produce. Wenceslas Square hosts a number of vendors where you’ll find large hams roasting on spits, klobása (sausages) on the grill and knedlíky (smoked meat dumplings).

Left to right : tuna three ways: flakes on focaccia, anchovy salad, seared /
Soft-shell crab bao / surf n’ turf curry with green rice & pita

Despite heavy planning, we couldn’t arrange reservations at either of Prague’s Michelin Star restaurants (Field or La degustation). So we sought out former bib gourmand Sansho, which prides itself on using bold and funky flavors, while creatively using head-to-tail local fare and ingredients. Big hats off to the chef and shall for the level of detail and service with their tasting menu!

Starting top left: Unfiltered Pilsner Urquell // Smoked trout fillet, light potato salad, quail egg, caviar // Beef tartare, caraway seeds, onion, pickles, smoked pepper sauce, toasted beer bread // Pearl barley risotto with mushrooms, young leek and dill // Rabbit ragout cooked in dark beer with root vegetables, beer bread roll // Pilsner Urquell

Prague served as home based while we made the day trip to Plzen. It’s a ~1 hour 20 minute train ride from the main station, and then an eight minute walk on foot to the main brewery yards. The only other breweries I’ve toured of this type of operation are Guinness and MillerCoors. We did a tour of the tunnels and of the brewery where we got to try unfiltered beer straight from the oak barrels, the only place in the world to still try Pilsner Urquell derived from this method.

Made from ingredients sourced from local farmers, Na Spilce‘s modern take on Czech cuisine is a must after you tour the brewery. Everything we ate was beautifully presented, dynamic in the flavor composition and delightfully paired with all the beers. I was especially fond of the barley risotto with its texture, sweetness of pickled mushrooms and bright balance with the addition of charred leeks, radish and dill.

Noms!

Santorini: Dinner for one, please!

When the world started re-opening during the summer of 2021, I made the decision to tack on a solo visit to pay tribute to where my parents met, and also for some rest and relaxation post-partying on Mykonos & Syros.

Santorini is most famously known for it’s blue-capped, white washed churches and mesmerizing sunsets. A hot destination for romantic getaways and honeymoons. Advised to stay away from Fira and Oia, I booked a hotel in Imerovigli, right on the edge of the caldera which gave me views of both the northern and southern points of the island (thank you, Stefania, for the recommendation!).

Here’s me, myself and I enjoying a solo dining experience smack dab in the middle of a restaurant with couples and families gawking. They probably thought I was supposed to be on my honeymoon or some lonely food critic. 🤷🏻‍♀️

Aside from these two food photos, my phone stayed tucked away in my purse and I people watched and spoke with the restaurant staff. Anogi specializes in traditional Greek dishes and local Santorini fare. I indulged in some local white wine, Santorinian fried tomatoes and traditional seafood orzo pasta, [not pictured] almond sweets w/ espresso.

Nestled between Kamari and Fira, Aroma Avlis boasts a wine experience complete with views of the Artemis Karamolegos winery, lunch, dinner and even cooking classes! I still think about their tomato tart, tabouleh stuffed zucchini, vanilla cream with pastry and cinnamon ice cream. Highly recommend making an afternoon of it! 

There are plenty of bars and restaurants that dot the edge of the caldera cliffs that you can pop in to or easily make reservations, just be prepared that it gets packed at sunset. During my navigation of the influencers and flying dresses, I found myself at The Wine Bar, where I impressed the waitstaff with both my Greek language skills and appetite. I ordered a Greek salad, the local fava and octopus. Santorini is also known for its super dry white wines given the microclimate of the volcano. I enjoyed a sampling from Santos, Venetsanos and Domaine Sigalas which all have tours and tastings you can reserve in advance.

The South and Eastern parts of the island boast red and black sand beaches respectively. I chose to explore the black sand beaches of Kamari and hike to Ancient Thera. When it came to dining, I kept to my favorite Greek salads, gyros (Elias Grill – Souvlaki & Gyros), ice creams and some authentic Italian pizza (Il Forno Pizza) during my final days.

Noteworthy activities

• The “hike” to Skaros rock and make sure you go around the other side to find THE church that everyone goes to to take photos. Go earlier in the morning when it’s not so hot and there are fewer tourists. Wear good sneakers. From Imerovigli it’s probably 35 minutes round trip. From Fira probably an hour walking.

• There are local buses that are 2€ that will take you to the major points around the island. 

• I was really impressed with the archeological site at Akrotiri and walking tour. There is a museum in Fira which houses some of the friezes and uncovered artifacts.

• Hike Ancient Thera – this is definitely off the beaten path and a difficult climb but the reward at the top is worth it. You can also take a cab/scooter/shuttle up to the site. It’s incredible to see it. If you hike make sure to bring plenty of water and go early in the morning before it’s too hot.

All The Hits V2: Mykonos & Syros

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Re-vamping a previous post (thanks to vaccines!) from a trip that I was fortunate to take this past summer back to my adored Mykonos and first visit to Syros. Sharing out my tips, tricks and food recommendations:

MYKONOS

While I am a fan of the clubs, I really love the beach parties in Mykonos and that’s what makes the vibe so special. Majority of the beaches require a reservation that is held until 11:30am before it goes to first come first serve. Be prepared for the day beds to be anywhere from 40-50€ pp. You can take the busses that start in old town but the fastest way to get around the island is by private transfer which your hotel can usually help organize.

• Principote Mykonos, opened in 2018 and is the spot to go these days. They have an gorgeous beach front (Panormos beach) and the dining experience is incredible. The party starts around 3:30/4pm with a DJ and people waving their napkins. Music is a mix of international and electronic/top 40 beats remixed. Order the truffled potatoes salt baked fish for the whole table. 

• Nammos (Psarou Beach) is nestled in a small cove and is also a hot spot for sunbeds, then lunch and followed by a party. 

• Scorpios (Paraga beach)  is a must for the sunset. You can go for dinner and then move to the sunset deck and drink. The vibes are very indie and the music is deep house. Order the spicy taramosalata, pork ribs, and whole baked fish.

• Alemagou is also a vibe like Scorpios and it’s a bit more remote to get to. We only went for the day but it’s definitely a bumpin’ sunset party too.

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• If you want a more chill day at the beach but a scenic lunch that’s tucked away in a cave, spend the day on the south-eastern side of the island at Agia Anna beach and make reservations at Spilia Restaurant. Order the melitzanosalata, prawns and seafood pasta

• If you want a really wild beach day party, Super Paradise is where the top 40 and hits come into play and it’s a bit of a younger crowd. I haven’t been since 2016 but it’s always a fun time. 

The Chora (old town) is good for exploring both day and night and also has a lively nightlife. If you want to try one of the newest restaurants that opened in June 2021, Noema is off the main path and requires a reservation and 50€ deposit per person. But the food and ambiance are exquisite. Definitely one of the best meals I’ve had in Mykonos. Order the cockles, leg of lamb and giant sardines. If you want just a good ol’fashioned pitogyro, make sure to stop at Jimmy’s. Definitely take a quick walk over to the windmills at sunset. 

If you have time for a boat I highly recommend Mykonos Catamarans to see and explore the nearby islands, enjoy some snorkeling and have a meal on the sea. This the company we used to charter a day catamaran to Delos and Rhenia

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SYROS – a quick 20 minute ferry directly West of Mykonos, known for its neo-classical architcture, charming marble-lined streets, and a hidden jewel amongst the Cycladic Islands.

• Make reservations at San Michali and order the ossobuco risotto Milanese and the veal tomahawk. You can take a cab from downtown for 3€. This outdoor space looks over the harbor and menu is a beautiful play on the flavors and ingredients local to the Cycladic Islands.

• Athymarites bakery for your Greek traditional sweets like various baklava, Kataifi (almond syrup pastries) and Kourabiethes (almond shortbread).

• Make reservations also at Ciel Asteria for dinner and drinks. Really nice at night and there’s hookah if you’re into that. During the day you can go swimming until the watering hole just to the right. It’s a 7 min walk from Ermoupoli.

• Enjoy a pitagyro while watching looking out at the harbor and locals promenade at Souvlaki ta Giannena

• Περί|Tίνος (Peritinos restaurant) is also situated along the harbor and offers a range of seafood while boasting local cheeses and liquors like tsipouro and masticha.

• If you want a beach and good food Ono Concept is really nice and it’s on the other side of her island, a 15€ cab ride

P.S. If you manage to find Lays Tzatiziki flavored chips, can’t recommend them enough!

Noms!

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Culinary Bootcamp: Day 1

White bass, seasoned with salt and pepper, sautéed in grape seed oil, basted in butter with rosemary.

I like to think I’m a pretty good cook (hence this blog)—but then I’ll be out at a restaurant enjoying a particularly good dish and think, “Ok, how do they do that?!” It might be the texture of the dish or a particular tasting note that, even when I go through a list in my head trying to account for the specific tools needed or some random seasonal spice, I’m left shrugging my shoulders and thinking I can’t possibly recreate that in my own kitchen. 

Well that’s all about to change because for the next five Saturdays, I’ll be upping my game with a 9:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m. culinary bootcamp class led by one of the executive chefs at Chicago-based The Chopping Block. It will cover the fundamentals of cooking with techniques ranging from basic to advanced. I’m super excited to share some of the things I learned this past Saturday and (when it’s safe to) show off my new skills when we host you at our place.

Day one focused on knife skills, sourcing/purchasing fish, de-boning fish, emulsions (think aioli, hollandaise, beurre blanc), and preparing fish four ways: poaching, sautéing followed by basting, roasting, and searing followed by roasting. I’m a total n00b when it comes to fish so this was one of the sessions I was most looking forward to learning and getting the hands on experience when it comes to successfully handling and preparing fish. The best part? We get to taste throughout the class and enjoy the fruits of our labor at the end of the day. 

Butternut Squash Risotto with Bacon and Sage

When we received a butternut squash in our CSA produce box from GFP Delivered (Chicagoans, check this out!), we looked for a recipe that would allow its sweetness to balance out a savory dish. Thanks to some NYTimes inspiration and after watching tutorials on MasterClass, we settled on Wolfgang Puck’s best practices for making a fall risotto. This dish is very well-balanced from its texture, richness of flavors, and perfect for a cold, fall or winter day. It’s a dish that will likely find its way to the Thanksgiving table this year.

Butternut Squash Risotto with Bacon and Sage
Cook time: 50-60 min
Makes 6-8 servings

Ingredients
1 butternut squash, peeled, cored and diced
1 small onion, finely diced
3-4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
6 oz bacon
~15-20 sage leaves, slivered
1 1/2 cups arborio rice
5-6 tablespoons butter
3-4 cups chicken or vegetable stock
½ cup dry white wine
½ cup grated Reggiano Parmesan, plus extra for garnish  
Salt & pepper

Directions

1. In a large pot, bring 4 cups of salted water to boil and add squash. Cook for 10 minutes until tender. And then remove from heat. Set half aside, and with an immersion blender or blender, blend remaining squash until smooth.
2. In a separate small pot, heat chicken stock and bring to a low simmer. In a large pan, heat 2 tbsps butter add onion & garlic stirring until fragrant and translucent, about 5-6 minutes. Add the rice, continue stirring until rice looks chalky, about 3 minutes. Add white wine, stirring until all is evaporated.
3. Start to add small ladles of the stock to rice every 5-6 minutes and continue to stir. Don’t be tempted to put a lid on the saucepan or add too much broth—adding small amounts of broth and stirring frequently without a lid ensures a thick, creamy risotto. Taste for texture and consistency, after ~50 minutes, rice should be al dente.
4. Fry bacon, set aside. Once cooled, chop.
5. Add in blended squash, continue stirring.
6. Just before serving, fold in chopped bacon, sage leaves, and reserved squash.
7. Serve with grated parmesan cheese, extra bacon and sage leaves. \

Noms!

Summer 2020 Recap

It was a summer of enjoying the patio in your very own backyard, if you were lucky to have one.

Of picnics in parks abiding by social distance rules between parties.

Of bread making while being challenged to find flour or yeast in stock.

Of hours and hours of board games old and new.

Don’t forget all those Zoom happy hours with co-workers and friends!

And finally, of trying out a variety of spices, vegetables, techniques all in the confines of our homes.

Major kudos goes to New York Times Cooking which has provided an endless list of creative, nutritious and repeatable meals that we’ve brought to life more than once. Take for example their Bacon-Wrapped Grilled Chicken Salad With Avocado and Lime, it’s bursting with tangy, fatty, bitter, acidic flavors and would easily be a crowd pleaser at a grill-out or dinner party. Or what about their Three Cup Vegetables on those “Meatless Mondays”? This recipe introduced me to turnips and how they pair well with other root vegetables, especially with brown sugar, sesame, soy and basil. Flattened Chicken Thighs with Roasted Lemon Slices had me licking the cast iron for each ounce of buttery-garlic sauce. If mayo isn’t your thing when it comes to side dishes, look no further than their Potato Salad with Dijon Vinaigrette which is lighter side to hamburgers and brats. To round out all the savory dishes, a star dessert that we made on more than one occasion are Key Lime Pie Bars with Vanilla Wafer Crust.

We also ad libbed several other tasty dishes to finish up leftovers on hand: jerk chicken tacos with mango habanero salsa on homemade corn tortillas; Chicago-style cast iron pizza; summer berry salad with chopped spinach, quinoa, avocado and topped with walnuts with lemon vinaigrette; and many, many renditions of homemade granola and yogurt.

While I’m not quite ready to transition to the fall stews, chilis and pumpkin-flavored everything, I’ll reminisce on some of our favorites of Summer 2020…

Banana Bread

Yup, my husband hopped on the banana-bread-making-bandwagon.

As all the critics suggest, it’s an easy way to make use of those ripening bananas and gateway into baking.

Seriously you can’t mess this up.

A few pro-tips: 1) he found that a lot of the recipes have the heat set too high which can cause the outsides to burn. Instead, it’s best to bake on a lower heat and then turn it up at the lat 10 minutes. 2) Many recipes call for only three bananas. Using 5 or 6 keeps the loaf more moist. 3) To add more texture and fiber add in chia seed and flaxseed.

Banana Bread
Prep Time: 20 min | Cook time: 1 hr 10 min
Makes 1 loaf

Ingredients
5-6 very ripe bananas
2 eggs
1 stick of butter / 8 tbsps
1 tsp vanilla
1 1/2 cup flour
2/3 cup dark brown sugar
1/4 cup white sugar
1 tsp baking soda
pinch cinnamon
pinch allspice
tsp of salt or tbsp of coarse salt
maldon salt flakes [optional]

Directions
1. Pre-heat oven to 315*F.
2. Mash bananas and mix with eggs and vanilla. Mix dry ingredients well and then fold in wet ingredients.
3. Butter baking baking pan. Pour in mixture and bake for 1 hr.
4. Increase heat to 350*F and bake for another 10 minutes. Loaf is done when you stick a knife in the middle and it comes out clean.
5. Remove and let cool for 15-20 minutes before serving.
6. Optional: Maldon salt flakes for finishing

Noms!

“In pizza, we crust!”: Cast-Iron Skillet Pizza

Cast-iron skillet pizza topped with chorizo, roasted red pepper chicken and jalapeños

Illinois’ “shelter in place” order has us working to be more intentional about meal-planning and grocery shopping for the week to limit our exposure.

One of the quick weekday dinner ideas we had was a cast-iron skillet pizza. The high heat capabilities of the cast-iron creates an evenly crunchy exterior with a pillowy, chewy texture on the inside. This will definitely be a go-to weekday staple in our cooking routine!

9″ Cast-Iron Skillet Pizza
Prep Time: 30 min | Cook time: 20-30 min
Serves: 2

Ingredients

1 Pizza Dough (we made a little less than half this recipe), homemade or store bought
Olive Oil
Salt
1 cup pizza Sauce, homemade or store bought
Pizza toppings sliced, diced (meats, veggies, etc.)
1 cup mozzarella Cheese

Directions
1. Pre-heat your oven to 500°F. Place your cast iron in the oven for 30 minutes until it’s piping hot
2. Roll out your dough and crimp the edges to form the crust. Note: You’ll be placing the dough in a hot cast-iron to shock the dough so there is little time to make adjustments. 
3. Once cast-iron is hot, remove from oven. Generously cover bottom of pan with olive oil and a sprinkle of coarse salt. Carefully lay dough in the pan. Generously cover the dough, especially the outer edges, with olive oil.
4. Bake crust for 10-12 minutes or until a light golden brown.
5. Remove cast-iron from oven. Arrange pizza sauce, cheese, toppings accordingly. Brush olive oil on crust and sprinkle with coarse salt or garlic salt.
6. Return to oven for another 10 minutes; remove and drizzle olive oil on crust again (I promise this will keep the crust moist!). Return to oven for 2 minutes or until crust is brown.

Noms!

 

Feliz Año Nuevo 2020! : Oaxaca & CDMX

Boston.

Green Bay.

Then there was Chicago and Austin and New Orleans.

No, none of these have anything in common. Oh, then there was Havana, Milwaukee, Sydney and finally Mexico City. Literally the only thing these cities have in common is they are where we have spent New Year’s Eve for the past nine years.

Our streak of celebrating in a different city each year is our way of continuing to explore new places and see how people around the world uniquely celebrate the holiday.

When it came to planning this trip, I received an overwhelming number of detailed recommendations. Props to those of you who did. However, traveling around the holidays means expected closures and limited availability with restaurants and services. So I knew we wouldn’t be able to dine at the infamous Pujol, Quintonil, Maximo Bistrot, or Contramar. That said, we found a number of great places and learned our way through some of the markets both in Oaxaca and Mexico City.

[A tlayuda with chorizo and beef at Mercado 20 de Noviembre] 

Upon our arrival in Oaxaca, made our way to the Mercado Benito Juárez where we sampled fresh-made mole, tejate a non-alcoholic maize and cacao beverage, and ogled the overflowing baskets of chapulines which are toasted grasshoppers. Tlayudas, also known as “the Mexican pizza,” are a traditional Oaxaca cuisine, consisting of a large toasted tortilla covered with a spread of refried beans, asiento (pork lard), Oaxaca cheese and a choice of meat like chorizo or beef. It’s delicious and very filing; we had one every day while we were exploring the city. Tlayudas El Negro has a great roof patio for enjoying this traditional cuisine.

The heat and high altitude made for ideal conditions to sample the sorbets at paletas.   Tuna con leche quemada, cactus fruit with scorched milk, came recommended as one of the more popular flavor combinations. Despite the vibrant fuchsia pink, the cactus fruit reminded me of kiwi and the flavor of “burnt milk” was smokey, bitter while being semi-sweet at the same time (Lukas did not like it).

[mezcal, grapefruit and chili-sugar // the Adelita cocktail from Temporal Restaurant]

We learned about the craft of distilling mezcal from agave plants and sampled our fair share of its varieties. If you’re looking for craft beer, you must make your way to La Santísima Flor du Lúpulo , a nano-brewery which has a constantly rotating batch alongside a number of other Mexican-craft beers. We were fortunate to enjoy their Chocomint Stout, which exemplified a strong mint-chocolate and great mouthfeel, and their American Pale Ale.

[Taco Mio’s “longaniza alemendrada” taco]

Back in Mexico City, we kicked off our week with a biking-food tour through Juarez, Condesa and Roma neighborhoods. We tried atole, which is a traditional hot corn- and masa-based beverage, tamales Oaxaqueños, which are wrapped in banana leaves instead of corn husks, tlacoyos, which are oval-in-shape, fatter than tortillas and stuffed with cheese and other ingredients like beans, cheese, and huitlacoche, which is a corn fungus but tastes like mushrooms. Thanks to this tour, we discovered Taco Mio’s “longaniza alemendrada” taco. They combine the sausage with raisins and almonds; top it with cactus, habanero onions and some salsa and it’s the perfect bite. We loved these tacos so much that we went back later in the week for seconds. 

[Sometimes known as “taco de sal”, it’s common for patrons of their local tortilleria to sample the top tortilla of their purchase. While still warm, they’re eaten either plain, salted or with salsa.]

Finally, we welcomed 2020 with a Hispanic tradition: “12 uvas de la suerte” — 12 lucky grapes — which is to eat 12 grapes at midnight, each representing a wish and the months of the year. Looking forward to coming back soon, and another year of nomming!